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The lowdown on azelaic acid


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Well tolerated by all skin types (including sensitive skin), azelaic acid is ideal for treating acne, rosacea and pigmentation, among other skin conditions.


In an article on professionalbeauty.co.uk, Laura Morgans of Noon Aesthetics explains that azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that can be derived from grains like barley, wheat and rye. She continues: “However, the lab-engineered form is typically used in skincare formulas because of its greater stability and effectiveness.”


She notes that azelaic acid is also useful for neutralising and preventing oxidative damage due to active oxygen species, such as superoxide anion radical (-2) and hydroxyl radical (-OH). “There are also reports of antiviral and antifungal actions. It can be used in the treatment of ingrowing hairs, folliculitis and keratosis pilaris,” adds Morgans.


This ingredient works well alongside vitamin C to treat pigmentation and in its antioxidant approach. Niacinamide is a calming ingredient which also works well with azelaic acid to alleviate inflammation.


Azeliac acid would not be used in combination with device-led treatments. “However, as a supporting ingredient alongside courses such as laser, IPL, peels, needling and waxing, it helps prevent posttreatment pigmentation, boost healing and restore skin function to reduce downtime,” explains Morgans.


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