A mechanical exfoliation modality, dermaplaning is currently doing the rounds on TikTok, indicating that consumers are doing the treatment at home.
In the professional sphere, a sterile blade is used to scrape dead skin cells and vellus hair from the face and, unlike chemical peels and microdermabrasion, dermaplaning does not use a chemical product, suction or crystals.
Professional Beauty UK’s, Ellen Cummings writes that when carried out properly, dermaplaning can be beneficial for the skin. However, as you would expect with people taking blades to their own faces, there are dangers when consumers carry out dermaplaning without proper training or skin knowledge.
Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, a GP and advanced facial aesthetics doctor is quoted in the article as saying: “The blades people at home are using could be very sharp, and sometimes they can make cuts in the skin. So, you introduce the risk of regular infection, bloodborne infections and cellulitis into the face. Cellulitis can then seep into the skin in the area around the eyes and cause periorbital cellulitis, which can affect vision.
“You can also risk causing damage and scarring to skin of colour, and you can risk post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to the trauma on the skin. So, in my opinion, I don’t agree with untrained people performing the treatment.”
Aside from cutting the skin with the blades, there is a risk of damage to the stratum corneum. “At home, people might be over-exfoliating, which can result in an impaired barrier, leaving them with sensitive, red and irritated skin,” says Jenna Unwin, a semi-permanent make-up artist, skincare technician and founder of the Million Dollar Facial system, which features dermaplaning.
Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon, facial aesthetics doctor and founder of MZ Skin, concludes, “Dermaplaning needs to be done correctly for maximal benefit. While it is a simple procedure, risks include redness, skin congestion and breakouts, and potential for infection.”
Explaining how to properly carry out professional dermaplaning, Unwin says, “A thorough dermaplaning treatment will work lightly back and forth around the contours of the face, and the therapist will finish with beneficial serums and SPF, ending with full aftercare advice. They will also be working in a sterile environment, reducing the risk of post-procedure breakouts.”
Dr El Muntasar emphasises that it’s important to lubricate skin properly to avoid uncomfortable scraping and to use clean blades to minimise the risk of infection. He also says that therapists and clients need to acknowledge that the treatment isn’t suitable for everyone, while Dr Zamani adds, “I would recommend not undergoing this treatment if you have active acne or any other active skin condition.”
To read Ellen Cummings’ full article click here